Paris - at high speed and in slow motion

A few weeks ago we went to Paris for six days.  What an amazing city.  Again.  I have been there a few times when I was living in London all those years ago for weekend visits and also on longer travels through France.  This trip I saw it all with new eyes...and loved it more.  Which I was so glad about as I really didn't know how the trip would go and what we'd really be able to do and see whilst having the two kids with us...who, to be honest, didn't care where they were as long as they got to go to the park and eat yummy things.      

Our journey started with an early morning road trip to Montpellier to catch the TGV.  What a cool way to travel.  High speed (the way it is meant to be).  Easy.  Parts of France that we won't get to visit were glimpsed through the windows. 

We arrived at the Gare de Lyon and what a shock to the senses.  I had expected things to be busy but it was quite overwhelming how many people there were standing, moving, sitting; as well as trains coming and going from platforms; as well as service vehicles driving right through it all.  The little people wanted to move after having been stuck on the train, but there was nowhere that was safe it seemed.  Our plan had been to catch the Metro to the stop right by our apartment in the Montmartre area.  But all that turned too stressful - with buggy, suitcase and the kids, with no elevator access to the Metro.  So we did the thing we said we'd never do and caught a cab with no carseats!  Eeek!  In Paris - one of the craziest cities in the world to drive in.  We at least got to get to the top of the taxi line as we had a buggy and kids.  A theme that continued pretty much everywhere we went in Paris - queue jumping with the kids.  Got to love that. 

Blending in around where our apartment was.  Kind of.  The buggy stands out because it is big - and also the buggy board on the back. 

Anyway, we arrived safely at the apartment, met our 'landlady' Alice.  So nice to have an apartment and not a hotel room.  Must get around to writing their review...but given this blog has taken weeks to get up, I'm not sure it will be happening in a hurry.  

There are a bunch of photos of our time in Paris on facebook  here that you can access even if you're not a member of it. 

Gregg had never been to Paris before so we had to try and do as many of the must sees as possible, and we think we managed to get a good amount in.  The difference of how we actually experienced them to how we would have liked to often had a gap though...  We raced past amazing paintings in famous museums at break neck speed, often chasing one or both the kids, or carrying one out who had decided they had well had enough.  At the Louvre, a security guard came and asked me (en Français) "Are they your children?"  "Oui", I replied.  "Stop them pulling on the ropes around the paintings because they are alarmed".  Sacre Bleu!  They shouldn't put the ropes at toddler hand height then! 

Are you the mother of these children??!!  Sacre bleu. 

We were sssshhhh'd at the Sacre Coeur as we walked through the church with thousands of others.  There were the SILENCE signs at the entrance and around the well trodden aisles of the beautiful church, and I can understand that for crazy outlandish talking.  But to have fellow sightseeers and the staff glare and ssshhh us for having Jonathan (who is a happy 15 month old toddler) make a few happy sounding 'ahhhh's made me really question how stupid tourism has become.  Jonathan loves the sounds of his ahhhh's when he is in the old churches and most people so far we have met in them have smiled that we have a little man who is happy. 

I would rather have a happy little boy in a church than vending machines that were at the end of the trek around the Sacre Coeur and the souvenir shop inside as well.  Screams of hypocrisy!!!  But apart from that, Elena and Jonathan danced with the three guys playing guitars and drums and singing and having mini concerts all the church visitors stopped at.  Jonathan joined in the act by climbing the stairs and one band member came and sang to him and gave him high fives.  The crowed all have photos of this - but unfortunately we don't as I had the camera and was trying to juggle the kids and their antics.  But that was great fun.     



Clash of sacred and beautiful and tourism gone ugly with the hawkers

We caught the bus mostly as there are generally no elevators into the Metro stations.  This was such a good way to travel and see so much of everyday life as well as scooting past attractions we might not have managed to get to otherwise.  I can really only say good things about the service the busses provided. We had some lovely interactions with other passengers on the bus.  Elena befriended many an old lady, and Jonathan made friends with almost anyone. There was a group of three people probably in the mid 20's who were high-fiving him and picking up his 'money' that he kept on dropping.  (One of his first words has been 'money' and both he and Elena have become a little obsessed with always having a piece of money.  Elena was playing with some at one of the museums can calling out 'money, money'.  Some other tourists looked a little quizzically at her wondering if she was talking about famous artists (Monet or Manet) - and then cracked up once they realised she was playing with the little coins).  Not all trips were when the kids were on their best and funniest behaviour - some were when they were tired and over the day, and of course there were some tears and protests.  Fellow passengers were not so enamoured with the kids then.  Nor with us.  It was like we were the worst parents ever having a child that was making a noise.  Is that why most French kids I see, often even if they are about 4, have a dummy/pacifier?  It was something to grin and bear, and not worry about as we were never to see any of them again. 

The City of Love.  It is.  It's kind of like being in Paris invites couples to bring out the PDAs (public displays of affection) like never before.  Everywhere you look were people smooching, cuddling, hand holding and just being lovely.  And it was a little infectious.  We put a padlock on the Pont des Arts along with thousands and thousands of others.  We wondered what happens when people break up....do they come and cut off the padlock?  We went to the Wall of Love - a tiled wall with I Love You written in 250 languages.  Someone offered to take our photo together and it is one of the few photos of us together in Paris.  We also made other couples happy by taking theirs.  Another excuse for acceptable PDAs in front of lots of people.  Was all very nice to watch - happy people - Lovers, friends, parents and kids.  The City of Love.



Some of the most amazing Roses I have ever seen.  But the loveliest thing was this watching people buying them. 

Montmartre was great.  Wish I could have bought some of the art.  Wish someone had asked to draw our happy little family....but alas no one did.  Is it because they know parents of young children have no sitting power as the kids wriggle and want to wander away.     

We got to the Eiffel Tower at the end of our last day in Paris. We did a quick admire of it, looked at the long lines to get up it, saw the signs about having to fold up your buggy and carry it with you, assessed the state of 'how close to losing it' the kids were and decided to go up the Tower another trip to Paris.  Instead we went about 100m away to a little park where we could peek at the top of the tower between the trees and the kids had fun.  We met another mum who had arrived the day before and was staying for three years (how jealous was I!!) and she was checking out the playgrounds.  Felt almost local-ish when I was able to tell her about some of the good ones we had discovered. 

Under the Eiffel Tower and yet another playground, where Jonathan mastered the art of going down the slide by himself

We had a few 'we feel like locals' moments when we were stopped a few times and asked for directions or other random questions by real locals.  And sometimes could even help them!!  One guy even stopped his car while we were standing at a bus stop.  Must have blended in quite nicely.  Perhaps we are starting to turn a little bit French after a few months here... 

We had a fab time and saw more sights.  I loved walking and taking in the sights and sounds; meandering, stopping and looking up little streets, through half opened doors and gates into courtyards that are normally shut from prying eyes.   

We had kind of done our dash after 6 days - and were happy to be heading home again.  But I loved it, miss it and will be back.  Paris - je t'aime! 

Travel tips 

• When travelling by train with young kids who are 'free' but don't get their own seat, pay the extra 9 Euros for them to secure their own seat.  It is so worth it.  And also try to get on the lower level of the train carriages. 
• Take a small buggy if you need one.  The good old kiwi mountain buggies are too big to get comfortably on the buses, too hard to collapse in apartments to leave at the bottom of the stairs, and you can't go up the Eiffel Tower with it....because how do you take baby and collapsed buggy?!  
• Buggys are great for being able to get to the front of the long long lines at many of the attractions.  You get priority entrance at many places.  So good!  The other way to get in early is to buy your tickets in advance, but we didn't have a printer so didn't do that.  
• Buses are great for getting around.  Buy a carnet of 10 tickets from any metro station or some Tabac's near the metro stations for about 13euro.  Much better value than the tourist buses with their 30euro ish tickets.  They are valid for 90 minutes and you can change as many buses or trains as you need to within that time.  Bus rides also act like the car does and sends tired kids to sleep!  Nice when you need that to happen.  You also see so much.  
• Fit everything you need into one suitcase, allowing room if you're going to do shopping.  It's too hard to move around if you have more luggage than you can pull or carry easily.  
• Break the day up with the kids.  They get bored with the things we wanted to see, so we learnt (the hard way) to get better at finding the playgrounds, giving them time and space to run around.  Although, often we thought we had found a nice big green space for playing on...but the grass is either fenced off, or there are 'no walking' signs.  What on earth are they thinking?  
• Cool websites:
• http://en.voyages-sncf.com/en/ for booking trains.    
• Apartments in Paris.... All Paris Apartments  We stayed in this one this one  - which was great...

Wonderful Visitors - to hearts and home

So it has been a little busy here in France - with friends visiting (where we all stay up till 1 or 2am and wonder how it got so late) and trips away to plan - so my blog writing time has been reduced (not that there is that much for it to start with, what with wines to be had on warm evenings and late dinners after the kids are in bed).  But tonight it was 13 degrees here when we arrived back from three (hot) days in Montpellier so the fire is on and there are no friends here so it seems like a good blog night. 

So here's a quick post to let you know we are all still alive and having fun, and also if I don't then I will completely get out of the habit and there will be no more posts.  So while this is mostly about the fantastic peeps who have come to visit so far that we are so blessed to have in our lives, there's also the odd digression into other random things - because I'm good at that.

There has been a steady stream of visitors since we have arrived and it has been so nice to sit on warm evenings by the pool, mooch into the couch after dinner and settle in for hours of laughs and lots of wine.  We are looking forward to some of them returning, and also new visitors - and also being visitors ourselves when we do a bit more travelling around.  For lots more pictures than I've put here...click here.     

My brother Joe came over for almost a week not long after we had arrived.  He caught a quick flight from the UK (for like 20pounds).  It was great showing him some of the things we had discovered.  He had cool suggestions which is how we ended up doing the cycling along the Canal du Midi.  Some pickies here.  I miss having Joe around and he has lived in the UK for about 3-4 years.  He is so funny and clever and we have the best chats about all sorts of things.  He arrived with presents for the kids which they love - because they were in desperate need of some new toys as not many came in the suitcases.  We had hilarity as Joe spoke French better than Gregg - but together they caused mayhem in the little restaurant we had lunch in after cycling.  Some of the French people around here have a particular accent to how they say some words.  Emily (our neighbour and wonderful hostess) had told me a funny story about how she was misunderstood when trying to say 'apple' ie 'pomme' and had to repeat it until finally she had a response of 'ah, pomme-uh'.  (I also had the same thing ordering Elena something strawberry flavoured - frais....which finally got a 'ah, frais-uh'.  The same was when Joe was trying to order Mint icecream (and not from the menu - from beside the freezer with all the tubs of icecream in it).  Mint in French is Menthe - so Joe said it how we do in NZ....mon-the.  The lovely young waitress looked confused, until she figured out where he was pointing....:"ah, muuunt-uh" - which to all of us just sounded like 'munter'.  Which because we have lots of laughs with Joe, this word had been bandied around lots already in reference to each other, it just caused hysterics.  There were so many good times with Joe.  Elena and Jonathan loved him to bits and were sad to see him go.  Jonathan carries the train engine around all the time.  Joe is Jonathan's God father and we have seen him three times now in the past 8-9 months.  Can't wait for him to visit again.  And just putting it out there - he owes me a Guest Blog post!  Waiting, waiting. 

Joe holds up food if it is there in photos. 

 
We had one night cross over with Joe and the arrival of Fiona and Malcolm who had come to France on their honeymoon.  Fiona and I have been friends since we sat next to each other on our first day of our post-grad tourism course in 1998.  And we have had some fun times since.  So with Joe there too, who knows Fiona pretty well too, it was such a fun night around our old dining room table.

Fiona and Malcolm, Gregg and Joe (with the food!!)

We, unfortunately, couldn't be there for their wedding in Wellington, (so heartbroken that I had to send a 'telegram' instead of being there), but we're so glad they wanted to see us that they came to see us on their travels!!   Twice.  After a couple of nights here, they went on a roadtrip and came back for a couple of nights.  More late nights!!!  Lots of wine.  Didn't manage cycle the Canal du Midi, but did walk along it from Bram.  We went past two locks - and it still takes me a bit of brain capacity to figure out and explain how they actually work - and I've watched a lot of them here now.  We happily watched the first lock and the boat in it go through the gates and there was the friendly lock lady who controlled the gate).  We got right up close to see.  At the second lock, Fiona and Malcolm tried to go and watch the boats....and hurriedly got told off by the not so friendly lady who controlled the gate.  You didn't even need to understand a word of French to know what she was on about.  The boats in the locks are fascinating to watch, as are the people aboard. Some seem to talk to each other, others don't.  Some look as if they are enjoying the whole experience, others not.  Some have people doing all the work for them, others run around themselves all stressed about getting the ropes across to land while others do it all with such ease.  I did see a family travelling with two young girls around Elena's age.  Firstly - how boring for the kids, but also, how stressful for the parents with the potential to go overboard.  Also we wonder sometimes, how boring to be on the boats.  They go so slowly.  We were walking faster than some of them between the lock gates.  Perhaps that is the holiday they need - to go that slow - it's just tooooo slow for me. 
We showed Fiona and Malcolm our favourite market town of Mirepoix - sans market and with market.  Both days were lots of fun.  We set our (invaluable) GPS to head off to Limoux (where they make Blanquette - French bubbles) from there after the market day, and it wound us through Tour de France country - which was very cool to see, but the longest way the GPS could have chosen for us to go.  I tried to book in to go to a fancy vineyard as a bit of a celebration lunch - but it was closed the day we wanted to go.  So we did a celebration dinner at home - typical Fiona and Rachel style.  Fun in the kitchen getting things ready, drinks outside, yummy dinner inside under the chandelier (that's probably not so typical - but very cool nonetheless). 

Mr and Mrs Barber - Congratulations

Celebration dinner - Dessert.  Looks nice and French.  Was a NZ Annabel Langbein favourite from home

Managed to jusush up inside and out with lanterns and candles to make it a bit more celebrationary, had a lovely magnum of Premier Boule bubbles that Gregg and I got at a place that does just bubble tastings.  Forget about still wine tastings.  And while we are on the subject of bubbles - we pay far too much for French champagne at home.  We got 6 bottles and a big magnum of fantastic bubbles for the price of one bottle of Verve at home.  It is not all good though.  I did get some from the supermarket - and tried a new type - Fruits instead of the more usual Sec or Brut.  It was really sickly sweet.  We also pay far too much for lots of things at home it seems - but that is for another time. 
I loved looking at the photos of Fiona and Malcolm's road trip along the Cote d'Azur and back to us again. And their stories of what they did and where they went.  Aunty Fi had a cool stone from one of her beaches for Elena (that Jonathan keeps stealing).  The kids both loved having more cuddles and fun times and attention.  I was envious of the freedom Fiona and Malcolm had to do what they wanted, whereas we have the kids to consider all the time and limiting what we can actually achieve versus what we want to do.  And they did it all without a GPS - and having done a trip since then to a few places, I am so proud they managed without one.  I don't know how well we'd be managing.  But for them, what an amazing place to come for their honeymoon.  Like us, I bet that they have made memories forever and loved it all!  Their visit is definitely part of our memories of our time in France.
Our latest visitor has been Noelia - who was our lovely au pair from France who lived with us in NZ for 6 months before Jonathan was born.  Noelia, more affectionately known as Nono, became part of our family and we have missed her so much.  Elena has missed her - they were together all the time while Gregg and I were at work.  I still remember all the giggles and fun they had in the mornings before we disappeared for the day. 

Noelia looking relaxed and at home.

Elena was so excited about seeing Nono again - and when she was here was lit up.  I know that when she went back to France, part of Elena's world fell apart.  She had become such a good friend - and it has been so lovely to see her again.  Elena made a sign with me to show her where to come down our little country road.  It was like making her 'Welcome Noelia' sign that we took to Auckland Airport when she arrived in NZ 18 months ago.  We were standing by the driveway when Noelia arrived.  Hugs.  Presents for the kids. Again.  And for us this time too.  Wine.  Lollies just like she brought to NZ for us.  And lovingly made macaroons and pastries.  Again - more late nights and early mornings mooching on the couch.  More outings to our favourite places.  Managed to go to the vineyard for lunch this time.  Went to Carcassonne castle.  Went on the butterfly walk at our place with the kids, had picnic morning teas at the front of the house and just did normal every day things.  It was so like old times.  We found a kids play area like Lollipops and had fun with the kids there.  We planned ski holidays on websites we probably wouldn't have found.  We found three hour train fares to Paris.  It was nice having a local Frenchie help us with things like that.  And with Noelia wanting to come back to NZ in July, we were all playing 'travel agents' for each other.  We had conversations in French - about all sorts of things - so it makes me realise my French is not as bad as I think, and with a little bit of patience and a little help with my pronunciation, I can chat away for hours at a time. We've planned to catch up in November and while we are skiing, so for now it has been 'a bientot'.  Elena is missing Nono again and talks of her lots and smiles.  Jonathan made a new friend.  And more great memories have been created.

And more to come.  Hurry up November when my cousins Maria and Hugh have managed to coordinate a visit to us.  Maria and James coming from London and Hugh and Julianna from Newport, USA.  There's also Juliette, a friend from high school who lives a couple of hours away (such a small world) that we need to catch up with - who also runs a facebook page for Kiwis living in France; and friends from work who also happen to be visiting near here.  And anyone else who wants to visit - (and visit again Joe- what are your dates) - there is plenty of room.   

It is so nice being on the other side of the world to home, but feeling like we are at home.  Friends and family.  Important peeps. 

The Point of Sunflowers

The first fields of sunflowers I saw were out of Oamaru on the way to Kakanui.  Since then I've been lucky enough to see them in Italy and France on a much much larger scale.   

But the fields of sunflowers are very quickly disappearing around us.  From the time we arrived here, they have been everywhere, and I have been fascinated watching the fields change from yellow to black as the sunflowers die; they are now being harvested.  The combine harvester-like machines go up and down the fields and chop of the flower heads halfway down the stem, and then another tractor comes along in the next day or so to cut down the flower stalks to leave an empty field.  The harvester apparently shakes the seeds out of the flower heads and there are trucks of seeds driving through the country roads, that are piled up and look like a mound of topsoil.     

A harvested field on the left, and drying flowers on the right. 

Beautiful images of fields of hundreds and thousands of these yellow flowers I have always loved, but it's only now that I have really started to think about what the point of it really is.  Oil and seeds. 


Drooping flowers but still stunning with thousands in a field

We must have missed the sunflowers in all their glory by a week or so, as they had droopy heads when we arrived.  The leaves have been changing from a yellow/green to a shrivelly brown colour.  The faces of the flowers have got darker and blacker.  I have wondered why some flowers are so much bigger than others.  Is it random, or different seed varieties?  Surely it makes sense for the farmer to have the bigger flowers with more seeds and a bigger yield at crop time.  But there are so many little flowers.  I need to do some proper googling on these questions I have.  Or practice some French about sunflowers and find someone to ask. 

Discarded flower head from the harvesting. The seeds just shake out so easily...although the husks must be taken off in another processing step

Gregg and I have wondered why NZ doesn't have more sunflower crops.  Is the value of the yield too low compared to our land values compared to over here? 

But, they are beautiful at all the stages I have seen.  It has made me think more about the whole lifecycle process and processing of the seeds.

Small sunflowers drying out

Walking through the now empty fields we have collected a few flower heads...examined them, peeled the seeds, tasted them.  The ones around here are mainly used for oil production.  The seeds are so much more oilier than the ones I'm used to out of packets. 

Bit of a random post - but when I'm on holiday like this I have time to watch all these things happening around me, and mull over the "why" about it all.     

When we can get this up close and personal in the sunflower fields and not just drive by and see them from the car, it is quite cool to see the changes over a few short weeks.

         

Narbonne and Narbonne Plage

Today's adventure saw us heading to Narbonne, which dates from 1 BC.  We are amazed by the age of this country with both its history and also the structures that remain from centuries later than that.  I could tell you a bunch of historical stuff - but you can read that elsewhere.  We looked around the 14th Century church - well part of the church as it never got finished.  Apparently the harbour silted up around this time changing the course of the Aude River so the town was not such a good place to have the capital of Gaul. 

Our standard set up for getting around - Mountain Buggy and buggy board for the kids, generally pushed by Gregg.  The buggy board gets a lot of stares and comments as we go anywhere. 

As a city fix on a pretty rural holiday so far, I loved it.  The buildings curved out from the ground, not straight and flush.  You glimpse old medieval churches everywhere, up little 'rues' (streets).  The restaurants and cafes and bars spew onto the streets - again with the chairs defining the outdoor spaces of each one.  The modern boutiques are housed in old, old buildings.  It was amazing to wander around....and indulge in a little bit of shopping.  I know it is commented all the time a bout how French women are chic, they ARE!!  From a people watching exercise, it was fun.  All ages of women looked fab, with scarves that looked so haphazardly thrown around their neck, what for most people would be mis-matched stripes just work for these ladies.  How??  They even walk differently it seems - that makes even the short chicks like me seem to be tall.  Oh, to emulate!!!!

We had a picnic on the side of the Canal de la Robine as that is easier than the cafes and restaurants I would love to be doing!!!  But Jonathan and Elena have different ideas about what makes a cool lunch.  The Canal is concreted in, rather than riverbanks.  It almost reminded me of the Thames on the Southbank of London. 

Avenues of trees are everywhere.  Elena wanted to wear her 'running shoes' today, and they got put to good use around the city.

The Cathedral and Archbishops' Palace in the background, with the canal just beyond me and the kids.

Canal de la Robine with some amazing buildings running alongside.  The ground floor of these house bars and restaurants, and shops and banks. 

While I write this, Gregg is talking about how the power of the Church in Europe in those time.  He sees small towns with ample agricultural advantages, but yet massive cathedrals and wonders how these were built and what the locals sacrificed to have these.  The wealth of the Church must have been amazing.  It's probably also worth noting that the area we are in is know as Cathar Country (think Templar Knights, Di Vinci Code etc) - so everywhere you go is some amazing church or Abbey.  But we digress........ 

The square in Narbonne. 

Passage de l'Ancre - a cool street of medieval arches and cobblestones

Narbonne is cool, and I look forward to going back a few more times given it is so close down the road.  'Cool'....goodness, I do need to come up with some better descriptions!!   

Part two of today saw us at Narbonne Plage (beach).  Given that Narbonne itself is no longer near the water, this was about a 15minute drive from the city.  Through vineyard country.  The temperature is showing 27 degrees as we see the bright blue water of the Mediterranean as we come through the dry, rocky landscape.  It really is beautiful.  Unfortunately no good stopping point for a photo...you will just have to believe me. 

Lower down as we get to the beach it is 28 degrees.  It is perfect for being at the beach.  A quick change at the car for the kids and us into our togs.  Then off we trot across about 150m of lovely sandy sand to get right up to the water where we set up camp.  Past the bare breasted ladies of all shapes and sizes, the leather brown skin of the sun lovers, and everyone else. 

Happy Jonathan

Jonathan is just a beach baby!  He LOVES it and will not keep his sun hat on because he is so busy walking off into the water, or throwing sand around, or throwing it all over his head.  Elena has the spades from the sandpit at home and is making a moat.  She has been paying attention at the Castles we have been visiting. 

Yes, the views are amazing as we look back over stunning blue water to the Pyrenees.  The water is still a bit fresh as you get into it.  Lovely once you are in.  Very much like at home.  We do have amazing beaches in Auckland.  And it's one of the things that while I would like to live over here for a lot longer, the lifestyle of NZ with the beaches so close by - just as beautiful - will draw us home.  We are so lucky being able to walk from home to the beach.  Our old house was just a 10 minute walk down the hill to a couple of the best beaches.  It's something that I'm sure many of us take for granted.  The road to the beach today was full of fast cars, impatient people all trying to get to where we were.  It is interesting the differences between here and there. 

Elena having fun. 

However, it was a lot like Mt Maunganui.  And so familiar.  I think give our kids a beach anywhere in the world and they will be the same.  We, as adults ooh and ahh about where we are.  The kids just want water sucking the sand from their toes and sandcastles.   

A great day all round.  City to surf (well, little waves that caused much delight).  One the way home we stopped at a roadside stall selling wines from the Vineyard right next door. 

Gregg choosing the wine.  A 12 euro 5 litre box of Rose (yes we are reliving the 80's and are drinking wine from a box!!

And PS.  The sunhat throwing off by Jonathan does not stress me as much as it would in NZ.  The sun is not as harsh and I'm already getting lots browner (yes, white pasty me!!) with not an inkling of sunburn after hours in the sun.  Imagine life in NZ without the ozone layer depletion!!!! 

A rare moment with Jonathan and his sunhat.

So we are planning our next beach outing....tomorrow.  And then perhaps a visit to San Sebastian in Spain soon too. (It is so cool to be able to even contemplate).  (and there is that word 'cool' again.)  Get me the Thesaurus.

PS.  there are heaps of cool photos that I will get up and link to...but Gregg's laptop has started freezing webpages after an update....so I can't do it now. 

Au marché, au marché

The other day on the way to the market, I taught Elena 'To market, to market,To buy a fat pig; Home again, home again, Jiggedy jig; To market, to market, To buy a fat hog; Home again, home again, Jiggedy jog'.  It made me think about how when that little rhyme probably was made up, it was when village markets were the way of life for everybody - and perhaps some frazzled parent made it up to keep their kids excited about going to market??!!  And now they are becoming a key thing we do as part of our week.  And I think it is pretty cool that Elena can associate that rhyme with something we do.    

The village markets were one of the things we were looking forward to before we came away.  On my previous travels in Europe I hadn't really done the market thing so much as we moved to a new location every day or so.  Of course the ones that remain in my memory are in Barcelona and in Venice.   

I guess it what excited me coming away was being able to go back to the same markets regularly, try different things every time and also find favourite vendors.  We haven't been disappointed, and I love spending the morning at the marché. 

Our favourite has been Mirepoix which is about a 25 minute drive from us, and held every Monday morning and is a great way to start the week.  It is set in 14th century village square, where the vendors sell their wares alongside the covered 'verandas' (where the second floor of the building juts out to create the cover, rather than something jutting out from the building.  A picture might explain that better.

The tables and stalls of goodies wind their way through Les Halles and alongside the centuries old church.  Under the 'verandas' outside the restaurants and bars are tables and chairs, each with their own look that defines which chairs belong to which establishment, and throughout the morning and heading into lunchtime and the winding up of the market, the tables are filled with people having a snack, a coffee or into lunch with some wine and something more substantial to eat.  I could watch the activity for hours and hours...but alas, with two kids in tow, we generally have to move quickly and onto the next thing to keep their interest up, or to find the next yummy thing to eat. 

Mirepoix market.  Gregg ambling through with the kids.  Often the picture changes and the buggy is empty of children and full of shopping!  But it shows the 'verandas' I was trying to explain.  I must find out what this is called. 

The vendors are just as interesting as their produce.  They are helpful when we must look a little overwhelmed at what to choose (or even how to choose it - some select your fruit and veges for you - others have bags for you to fill your own that they hide away up above your heads, so when you stand there waiting to be served you look like a goober), the name of things are in French - and even reading the name labels out our accent often causes a giggle - but we always get there, they are friendly to the kids - who are often handed a grape, an olive or piece of dried fruit or slice of salami.

Our favourite vendor is one guy - but he has multiple names - the olive man, the dried fruit man, the sundried tomato man, the vege chip man.  We love his things and always come away with what we think is enough....but never is!  Luckily we have found him at both Mirepoix and Limoux so far, so can get a double weekly fix if we need to. 

The stand with man with multiple names that we have given him.  It was one of the first stands we went to at Mirepoix market.  The most commonly used word at his stand is 'plus' ie, more.   



Eeek.  Didn't like this guy and his buddies.  I had kept walking and Gregg and my brother Joe who was with us this day in Limoux stopped!  Why? We all were watching our pockets and bags.  Another guy was showing Joe a rope trick where he pulled it around his neck.  Creepy. 

Mirepoix not on market day. 

Mirepoix on market day

Back home with our first market shopping.  

Our first market visit we came away with some basic things, but now we know what can be found at the markets we are leaving with more goodies...I got powdered vanilla and vanilla pods the other day; and just devine herbal tea taken out of a big canister and packaged so nicely in a little bag for me.    We have realised the bottom of the buggy is just nowhere near big enough for our shopping so have bought a basket (that can also double for taking towels to the beach, or picnics out).  Since we have bought that it is always filled to the brim with du pain (bread), des legumes (veges), des fruits (fruit) and lots of other goodies.  And everyone I talk to seems to have a new recommendation for a vendor to visit, or where to get the best olives or other regional product! 

We are seeing some of the same vendors at a couple of the different markets.  Another one we like is on Friday in Limoux (home of French bubbles and another blog tale!!).   It doesn't seem as compact or intimate as Mirepoix and is spread over the village square, a couple of streets and into an inside hall, but in reality is probably about the same size.  They had some chickens and rabbits in cages...not for pets, me thinks...

There is a market close by for every day of the week if we want it.  Sometimes we go once a week, sometimes twice.  It just mingles into your way of life here, and it is great to see the markets obviously full of local residents as well as holiday makers from near by, as well as tourists passing through.  We can get a lot of what we need for the week and it makes going to the supermarket really for the non-food things, or non-perishable items.  It is a lovely way to be able to live, and also then cook.  We don't have a fridge full of things that get bought with good intentions as part of a full supermarket trolley, and then get wasted as they don't get used.  It is filled with things for the next few days...and then we know we'll be off to market again.  We have tried in NZ to get to markets more often than we actually have.   

We hope this will be a habit we do take home with us.  Jiggedy jig!! 

       

A new place to call home

When we decided that we were coming away for 3 months (which turned into not quite 4 months by the time we sorted out flights and a few other things), we knew we needed a base to call home.  Travelling with two young kids (aged 3 and 1), we knew they would need a bit of stability and normality in the midst of all the change.  So we looked for somewhere we could rent for the whole time we were here, knowing we'd have some trips away, but always somewhere to come back to. 

We also knew we wanted to be in the general South of France region, but were not set on where.  So we found a few places we thought would look good to stay in, and  figured out from there whether it was a village/region/ etc that we wanted to be in, and that would have enough close by to keep us busy enough (when we wanted to be busy!). 

This is where we ended up....Domaine Les Tisseyres ((here's their website), and their Facebook page that has cool photos of it too, just outside of the village of Fanjeaux; but also close to so many other villages and a few cities too. 

Snapshot of the large old school map in the house showing Fanjeaux and surrounding area.  We are slowly getting to all the places of interest!

How French is this place!!!

Close enough to head to the beach, and close enough when the seasons change to head to the ski fields if we want to.  And if you're looking for somewhere to come and stay we would thoroughly recommend it here!! 

Our hosts, Ed and Emily, with their two young girls are great.  They are originally from the UK but have lived here for the last 3 years.  The have been so welcoming and have a great knowledge of the surrounding area and what to do (especially with young kids).  The house itself is split in two - bit of  the part they live in and the part we are in.  The original part of the house was built in around 1830 (before the Treaty of Waitangi was signed to put that in a bit of historical timeline context), had a tower added onto in in the 1930s'; and the barn was converted to a residence about 20 years ago.  It's just what you imagine a big old French farm house to be....three levels, large, exposed beams (many just look like the trees they once were), tiled floors, wooden floors, window shutters, big old French furniture, chandeliers, fireplaces, walls of bookshelves filled with books, wide staircases (that aren't quite level), walls as thick as the length from my hand to my elbow, pool, old fruit trees, gardens full of herbs and old stone tables and so much more.  Have put a bunch of photos in here.  

How is that for a beam?  I stare at it all the time just fascinated by it.  

It is so amazing just walking through the house - every time noticing something new and interesting.  Every window has a scene out of a painting, although it is constantly changing with the clouds and the sun and the light and whatever else the weather is doing.  There is a little wood that Elena and I chase butterflies through, and at the end of it you peek through the trees to the hill with Fanjeaux perched atop of it.  It is at the end of a skinny, winding road that passes through fields of sunflowers and crops.  It is just like out of the books you read about where the author loves the area so much they stop and buy an old villa to do up!

I've already put some photos up on Facebook of 'Chez Nous' - and will probably add to that album over time with pictures of the things I love about the house.  Here's a link (click here) that you can use even if you don't have Facebook.

We've walked through the fields of sunflowers near the house, although the Mountain Buggy which made the trip with us hasn't been the easiest thing to push through the long grass.  Elena say 'uh oh.  long grass.  can't go under it, can't go over it, got to go through it.  swishy swashy swishy swashy'.  It puts exactly where you are on the map in perspective when you can see the villages in the distance.  My plan is to go for some runs through the fields more and explore different directions.  Alas, there have been no runs yet.  Jonathan has been in the back pack or front pack depending on his state of sleep, so not conducive to going jogging.

We have been sleeping in a lot.  In part because the kids have had interesting sleep patterns after travelling half way across the world (ie waking lots at night), in part because I have been so sleep deprived since Jonathan was born, but mainly because of the Shutters!  They are better than black out blinds, and on sunny days at 9am you'd think it was the middle of the night.     

It's exactly what we hoped for, and so much more.  Our home for three months.

Things that need getting used to

It's one thing to get on a plane and travel half way around the world, and know you are coming to another country, with another culture and other ways that things are done....but it's another thing to experience it.  (Again).  I was last in France in 1997...and while some things have come back like it was yesterday, others haven't.  I travelled with two good friends, in a Eurolease car (a little blue/green Renault Megane) for a couple of months.  This time I travel with a husband and two kids, in a Eurolease car (a Renault Grand Scenic).  There will be a little less spontaneity on this trip.      

Driving 
As we loaded up the car at Nice airport, there was a road above us.  The cars were going so fast.  Our Renault lady loaded our destination into the GPS.  I made sure the language was set to English.  Not quite ready for driving instructions in French...although I do want to get to a comfort where I can change the language.  That busy fast road I had seen was our first road out of the airport roundabout.  No easing into it on slow road.  Wham.  Straight into it.  I drove.  Gregg looked out windows and into the lanes and helped tell when it was safe to merge, change lanes, pass etc.  Seems silly, but trying to re-get used to a manual car, driving on the wrong side of the road, really fast - it was all a little overwhelming.
 
We chose to travel on the toll roads as we wanted to get right through to Fanjeaux the same day to get the kids settled in at our new 'home' (check out Chez Nous here Chez Nous - our place in France).  So we missed out on some fantastic destinations along the way and some amazing scenery.  It's a trade off - but we'll back track while where're here!

First stop was the petrol station.  When I went inside it was so familiar.  The grocery section.  The bottled water.  The 'fast food' of baguettes filled with ham and cheese and tomato.  Out came the French.  Handed over the credit card so we could fill the car with gazole (diesel).  I asked for coins for the tolls (as we had had a disastrous toll booth experience a little earlier on the motorway), and I now got told the booths take notes - which we had....refer below as to why this is relevant. 

The speed limit on the toll motorways is 130km/hr.  When I got on I said to Gregg we would not be driving that fast. It just seems wrong.  After coming from 100km/hr speed limit in New Zealand, and travelling with precious kiddy cargo, it was a concept that just seemed wrong.  However, after an hour or so, there we were cruising along at 130km, passing tucks and slower cars.  It still freaks me out some of the fast cars.  With a speed limit, there are always those that break it...and they must have been going 150km/160km.  Eeek!  Out the rear vision mirror one second there was nothing, and then there was this fast fast car.  Now we are at our little village and have local roads around us, we avoid the toll roads where possible (not because you pay - but you only see France at 37,000ft that way).  Apart from the speeds, the toll booths cause a stupid amount of stress....far more than they should - it's not 'cos I'm particularly tall - but you'd need to be Dutch tall to work those damn machines.... 

Sometimes Jonathan wants to drive

Driving on the right side of the road

Toll booths
The worst part of our driving to date.  And I'm not sure yet whether the stress associated with them will subside to a level they actually deserve.  When we picked up the car and I asked the lady about toll roads, and did we need coins, she told me to just pick the credit card lane and use that.  Seems ok.  At the time, we forgot about exchange rates and credit card fees that would probably be more than each toll, but brains weren't working properly.  Otherwise we would have totally thought about the cash option more.  So we get to our first booth we have to pay the toll.  Pick the line with credit card option.  Plonk it in the booth machine.  Message reads...Carte Non Accepta.  Eeek.  You don't even need to know French to know that you are in the poop.  Tried another card.  Same message.  Cars lining up behind us.  Try again.  And again.  Same message on the machine. (running out of cards at this stage...)  I pushed the Help button and in very bad French attempted to say "J'avais une carte non accepta" ie I have a card that doesn't work in the machine.  The voice came back asking where I was.  Who knows.  I was looking for a booth number, a location name place.  Nec minute a young guy is next to the car window.  By this time we've taken out some money to give him, which he then feeds into the slot on the machine.  Where on earth was the cash slot when WE were looking at it???!!!  Magically disappeared.  Blindness hit us.  It just wasn't there.  Amazing what stressful situations do to you. 

Then there is the driving up close to the booth machines to get tickets, or pay the money (which we know how to do now).  I can never get close enough.  I have to open the door.  Then the car stops when you open the door or put it in neutral and take your foot off the clutch.  Another stress!!!   But then it starts automatically again.  Arrrgh.  So toll booths are definitely NOT a favourite of ours.  And no matter how familiar they become, our first experience with them will probably mean they will stress us out forever.  Gregg thinks they are hilarious - Not helpful.. %$#*

Unmanned Petrol Stations
Another bad part of driving so far.  Although our credit cards are chipped and up to date, the machines at the petrol stations, most of which are 24/24 (ie unmanned) they don't blimmin work in the machines.  And the machines don't take cash.  So we hunt for the petrol stations with people.  And generally pay for the luxury.  But we have been lucky.  We clocked about 900km before the petrol light came on...a full tank of diesel would be about 70euro, approx. $125 NZD.  Our car had 1111.1 km on it this morning and it had only just been filled up. 

Speaking French
I know a little bit of French, although I can probably read it, and listen to it far better than I can actually speak it.  So the transition to making the words come out of my mouth from my head has been interesting.  Mostly I have been able to make myself understood.  Sometimes there is hilarity as no one understands. I have been (pleasantly) surprised at how little English is spoken where we are.  Either that, or they are humouring me and pleased I am making an effort.   In the last few days I've had to buy medicine for a sick little girl, buy sandals (out of season) for Elena, visit tourism offices and ask about the Dinosaur museum (although my Kiwi version of Dinosaur was not understood, but pretending to actually be a dinosaur was understood.  Deeenosaaur, not Diiiineosaur... Of course!!! Have got a new phone number for France.  Hired a cleaner for our house.  And lots of other things with so little English that I am proud of myself.  I need to practice, and remember new words.  But after a week here, French is becoming the automatic language for some of the things I say.  The kids understand those little phrases.  Gregg knew no French before coming here.  And I have been so proud at the way that he has learnt some key phrases and words and is happy to rock up to a shop and get what he needs.  Kind of like NZ - they don't always get him though...

The Sunday Shutdown
Everything is shut on Sunday.  I knew this, but had forgotten this.  And because we are on holiday, and not tracking the days, it all just sneaked up on us.  It also happened to be the day we decided to go to the supermarket for a big shop.  Typical.  So we gave up on shopping, but decided with so little food in the house we should eat out before going home  Ordering.  Went ok.  Three filled baguettes and some drinks.  By the way - what is with the fake cream put on top of cappuccino's??  I need to change my coffee of choice here.  Paying.  Gregg went up to pay after we had ordered a round of icecreams.  We must had hit a staffing change over, because as he was trying to pay chaos ensued!!  They kept trying to give him three more baguettes.  He kept giving them back. (This happened about 10 times...) Remember he cannot speak any French!!  They kept telling him it was already paid (which he knew it wasn't) and he kept saying ..' non'.. then trying to give him the baguettes again after 10 minutes of this he could have ended up with sandwiches - fortunately he had the common sense to keep saying 'non' - although when I got to the counter some of his drawings for them were quite comical! I am oblivious to all this, as it goes on, as I deal with two kids and dripping ice-creams - they had, in fact let him pay for..... so now we had a split bill and language barrier......  It all looks jovial so I leave Gregg to it.  But really all I wanted was him to come back to the table so I could get some napkins for the drips ( thinking he's found someone who wanted to practice their English....)!!  Little did I know he is trying to play charades, and mime that he has already eaten (OMG can you imagine it).  When I eventually came along, I didn't have much more luck until the word 'deja' came out!  Our learning is pay as you go!  Watch out for staff changes.  Buy groceries before Sunday!  Know what day of the week it is. 

Was interesting trying to ask for a 'fluffy' for Elena.  Turned out ok. 

Starting to need the napkins but Gregg was playing charades

Sundry things to get used to

• Amazing wine, cheaper than soft drinks at home
• The price of beef.  So expensive.  We have it so good in NZ
• Du Pain - Bread. Yummy.  So cheap.  Gregg at a million corporate breakfasts in NZ has never gone near the pastries.  There is no stopping him here.  I have to fight him to order from the shop keepers.
• Midday shutdown - needing to time eating vs shopping vs anything else as there is generally a shut down between 12 - 2.  Although you know life goes on behind the shutters, as you hear chatter and clattering of cutlery and smell yummy cuisine
• Being called 'madame'  - it makes me feel old. 
• Lazy time.  So relaxed.  No need to rush anywhere or feel like we need to be anywhere at anytime.  Although I do need to collect my brother Joe from the airport tomorrow as he flies in from the UK. 
• Time with the kids with both of us.  And not just the standard weekend rush to fit things in.
• Writing a blog.  Lots of ideas in my head to get down 'on paper' but finding the time.  The kids have not been the easiest to settle at night.  Jet lag has hit them a bit and we are all paying the price.  So evening time to ourselves has been a little bit lacking.  But I think we are coming out of it now.   
• Shutters.  Sleeping in because although it is glaringly bright outside, it is pitch black in the bedrooms.  Is good, but is bad. 

So many things that are probably just becoming the norm now.  We are loving it.  Getting used to things is just part of the whole experience we have come here for.  We could not ask for anything more. 


PS Gregg added a couple of words to this, and says...'Here you go, it is funny now'.  This isn't supposed to be a funny blog, I don't profess to being a comedienne.  There might be the odd amusing thing, but really these are just ramblings from me.  Hope you enjoy anyway.